Pig Fall And Winter Concerns
Fall has arrived, the temperatures are dropping and the leaves are changing colors. Now is the time to ensure your outside enclosure is winter proof. An outside space needs to have 4 walls and a roof. It needs to provide protection from the elements and be able to not only keep your pig safe, but also warm. If you use a dog house or custom pig house, thats great. Some have barns, some pigs only go outside to potty and go back in the house. Some pigs live outside only and those pig owners have to take measures to make sure their pig(s) have a warm place to go. Straw makes a great insulator, so does hay. The best heat producer for horses or pigs is hay. It produces heat as it is digested. But, pigs also like to eat hay, so you may lose some of your insulator as time goes on. Also, hay does mold and a pig eating moldy hay can result in health concerns. So, regardless of what you decide to use, please check it often for mold/rot and remove any affected portions and replace with fresh hay/straw.
Blankets work for some pigs. A nice box filled with straw and blankets big enough for them to cuddle up together in. Sometimes people like to use heat lamps when it gets really cold. Just be careful to be sure they are high enough to avoid being touched and have a wire on them to hold the bulb up because there have been some tragic events from heat sources causing barn fires. Sometimes even a regular light bulb will add a touch of warmth. Covering windows and doors with blankets or rugs can help. (Including the entrance door) A DIY way is to find a heavier plastic or even carpet and tack it up on the outside of the enclosure so there is a barrier against the wind.
Blankets work for some pigs. A nice box filled with straw and blankets big enough for them to cuddle up together in. Sometimes people like to use heat lamps when it gets really cold. Just be careful to be sure they are high enough to avoid being touched and have a wire on them to hold the bulb up because there have been some tragic events from heat sources causing barn fires. Sometimes even a regular light bulb will add a touch of warmth. Covering windows and doors with blankets or rugs can help. (Including the entrance door) A DIY way is to find a heavier plastic or even carpet and tack it up on the outside of the enclosure so there is a barrier against the wind.
This is a flat panel heater that can adhered directly to the wall and can be bought on Amazon.com. https://www.amazon.com/Amaze-Heater-previously-Cozy-Heater-Mounted-Electric
Shelter Ideas For Pigs
The importance of shelter is to have a place your pig can go in order to get out of inclement weather. There are lots of pigs who live outside year round, however, these pigs are aclimated to extreme conditions and in good homes, these pigs have adequate shelter that is typically insulated where they can go to warm up and comfortably go to in order to keep warm. A good enclosure will have 4 walls, a roof, ventilation of some kind (so noxious gases do not build up inside) and hay/straw or blankets.
What do others in the pig community do for their pigs?
I recently asked other pig parents how they keep their pigs warm during the winter months and this was some of their responses.
Carrie Buko says: Straw is what you need for insulating and bedding. Straw stays dry longer and is much easier to clean up. Like someone else said, but I would put it on the inside of the shed. Stack bales of straw about 3 bales high in a square area for the bed. Then a canvas tarp over it to contain their body heat. Break open a bale of straw for them to lay on. That way they will have an area to eat inside of the shed too. Piggies appreciate having some good second cut hay to eat. But put that in the eating area. The main thing is to keep them dry and out of the wind.
Estee Creel added: No drafts and enough straw (not hay). Enough that they can bury themselves and you can not see them. They matt it down pretty fast so you have to keep fluffing mid week and add more by end of week. They eat some too. We add fleece blankets as well. We have a fully heated house and none heated with straw and all four choose straw house, yup waisted $1000 to heat one for them. I live in CT. We have COLD winters and lotsa snow here.
Helen Morrisons said: The keywords are DRY and WINDPROOF so make sure the shed has a watertight roof and the shed is not too drafty and the floor is -- and will stay -- dry. Straw (not hay) is a great insulator but they will need more than 3 bales. Over time it gets squished down and you'll want to add more. Make sure they have enough to burrow completely under the straw. Heat lamps can be really really dangerous, and if the shed is dry, windproof and has plenty of bedding, heat lamps are not necessary. I kept pigs outside in the Cleveland area for almost 20 years and never used a heat lamp. Just lots and lots and lots of straw in a dry windproof garage
Jake Davolio says: When we first started we used small dog houses with lots of straw. 19 below zero and they were all snuggled up under the hay and toasty warm. We have since built a small 12x24 barn with individual bunks with personal doors. We fill the boxes with hay and they are toasty warm. If you heat the barn, it will be difficult for them to regulate to the extreme cold when they have to go outside. We keep our chickens in the barn as well and they get a simple 60 watt light bulb.
Tina Lufkin shared her method: All of mine that are in the barn I cover with blankets once they are settled, then five of the small pigs, snuggle together in a small house I built for them , the roof is low and I fill it with straw and cover the whole house with heavy tarps, they stay very warm that way!!
Nicole Laskos stated: If you use a heater in the winter PLEASE do not use a heat lamp of any kind. There are so many ways they malfunction. Every winter it breaks my heart to hear of all the barns that burn to the ground from a heat lamp. Please consider a flat panel heater (there are many different ones on Amazon) or a Sweeter Heater. Sweeter Heaters are made for animal use and are much safer and also much more energy efficient. I have one and it works great. I also have a flat panel heater, also works great. http://sweeterheater.com/. Someone asked about the exposed cord and her response: Tuck it away but mine aren't chewers. The sweeter heater hangs from the ceiling so the cord can be directed upward. Either way, make sure when you plug in anything around animals it goes into a grounded outlet. That way it will automatically turn off rather than electrocute them if chewed. I personally know of one pig and one horse who were shocked and killed by chewing on a non grounded cord.
Christy Lutterbie says: Three of mine are outside in the barn. Lots of straw and blankets that we pick up cheap from goodwill. We also hang a heating light above the pen that we bought from tractor supply. There are lots of opinions about heating lamps, but it keeps them warm and we are extra careful with where it hangs and how close it is to the pigs and straw. We also purchased a mat that we bought at tractor supply that they use for horses. It's a huge rubber mat that keeps the pig off the barn floor. We pile the blankets and straw on top of it. It's also cut a way that allows for drainage in the event piggie has an accident.
Brittany Sawyer said: The most important thing you can do to ensure your pig is nice and toasty in the winter months is provide a shelter with a floor off the ground and plenty of insulation like fleece blankets or straw/hay. Again, be sure to check the hay often for mold because it does mold when it gets moist. Be sure that any item you put in your pig house that gets wet is removed/replaced, especially if you do not have a heat source in that house. Things like blankets that get wet can actually freeze to your pigs skin or hair, so be sure to check up on your pig often if they're in an outdoor enclosure.
Carrie Buko says: Straw is what you need for insulating and bedding. Straw stays dry longer and is much easier to clean up. Like someone else said, but I would put it on the inside of the shed. Stack bales of straw about 3 bales high in a square area for the bed. Then a canvas tarp over it to contain their body heat. Break open a bale of straw for them to lay on. That way they will have an area to eat inside of the shed too. Piggies appreciate having some good second cut hay to eat. But put that in the eating area. The main thing is to keep them dry and out of the wind.
Estee Creel added: No drafts and enough straw (not hay). Enough that they can bury themselves and you can not see them. They matt it down pretty fast so you have to keep fluffing mid week and add more by end of week. They eat some too. We add fleece blankets as well. We have a fully heated house and none heated with straw and all four choose straw house, yup waisted $1000 to heat one for them. I live in CT. We have COLD winters and lotsa snow here.
Helen Morrisons said: The keywords are DRY and WINDPROOF so make sure the shed has a watertight roof and the shed is not too drafty and the floor is -- and will stay -- dry. Straw (not hay) is a great insulator but they will need more than 3 bales. Over time it gets squished down and you'll want to add more. Make sure they have enough to burrow completely under the straw. Heat lamps can be really really dangerous, and if the shed is dry, windproof and has plenty of bedding, heat lamps are not necessary. I kept pigs outside in the Cleveland area for almost 20 years and never used a heat lamp. Just lots and lots and lots of straw in a dry windproof garage
Jake Davolio says: When we first started we used small dog houses with lots of straw. 19 below zero and they were all snuggled up under the hay and toasty warm. We have since built a small 12x24 barn with individual bunks with personal doors. We fill the boxes with hay and they are toasty warm. If you heat the barn, it will be difficult for them to regulate to the extreme cold when they have to go outside. We keep our chickens in the barn as well and they get a simple 60 watt light bulb.
Tina Lufkin shared her method: All of mine that are in the barn I cover with blankets once they are settled, then five of the small pigs, snuggle together in a small house I built for them , the roof is low and I fill it with straw and cover the whole house with heavy tarps, they stay very warm that way!!
Nicole Laskos stated: If you use a heater in the winter PLEASE do not use a heat lamp of any kind. There are so many ways they malfunction. Every winter it breaks my heart to hear of all the barns that burn to the ground from a heat lamp. Please consider a flat panel heater (there are many different ones on Amazon) or a Sweeter Heater. Sweeter Heaters are made for animal use and are much safer and also much more energy efficient. I have one and it works great. I also have a flat panel heater, also works great. http://sweeterheater.com/. Someone asked about the exposed cord and her response: Tuck it away but mine aren't chewers. The sweeter heater hangs from the ceiling so the cord can be directed upward. Either way, make sure when you plug in anything around animals it goes into a grounded outlet. That way it will automatically turn off rather than electrocute them if chewed. I personally know of one pig and one horse who were shocked and killed by chewing on a non grounded cord.
Christy Lutterbie says: Three of mine are outside in the barn. Lots of straw and blankets that we pick up cheap from goodwill. We also hang a heating light above the pen that we bought from tractor supply. There are lots of opinions about heating lamps, but it keeps them warm and we are extra careful with where it hangs and how close it is to the pigs and straw. We also purchased a mat that we bought at tractor supply that they use for horses. It's a huge rubber mat that keeps the pig off the barn floor. We pile the blankets and straw on top of it. It's also cut a way that allows for drainage in the event piggie has an accident.
Brittany Sawyer said: The most important thing you can do to ensure your pig is nice and toasty in the winter months is provide a shelter with a floor off the ground and plenty of insulation like fleece blankets or straw/hay. Again, be sure to check the hay often for mold because it does mold when it gets moist. Be sure that any item you put in your pig house that gets wet is removed/replaced, especially if you do not have a heat source in that house. Things like blankets that get wet can actually freeze to your pigs skin or hair, so be sure to check up on your pig often if they're in an outdoor enclosure.
These are portable HVAC units that are ideal for outdoor enclosures. They are a bit pricy, but if you can find the money in oyur budget, these are a great solution for your pigs outdoor house. http://www.climaterightair.com/products/climateright-models/climateright-2500-btu-mini-ac-heater.html
Acorns, Acorns, Acorns
Oak Leaves And Acorns
Whilst ruminants are more susceptible to acorn poisoning, outdoor pigs may be affected occasionally. Young oak leaves or green acorns are the major sources and signs are seen two to three days after ingestion. These include abdominal pain and constipation followed by haemorrhagic diarrhea. The kidneys may also be affected. Again, My pig Buttercup was diagnosed with acorn toxicity just last year. Her urine was brown in color and according to the blood tests, her liver enzymes were elevated. She was removed from the acorn source and when her urine was clear again (about 2 weeks after the acorns were removed), her blood was drawn again and lab results revealed a downward trend and were on the way to returning back to normal. It's a lot easier to simply pick up the acorns than nurse a sick pig back to health. Some say acorns are not toxic to pigs, I disagree. Not all pigs are affected by eating the acorns, while other pigs are. This may have something to do with the genetic makeup, how the body processes foods and less to do with the actual acorns, but its not worth the risk to me. I have to vacuum the acorns up everyday with a yard vacuum or riding lawnmower with the bagging attachment and that has to be done several times a day to manage the amount of acorns in my yard. Large amounts of acorns eaten have the potential to cause issues with pigs. Avoid the areas that have a lot of acorns, use fencing to separate your pig from areas that have oak trees that produce a lot of acorns. Although some say acorns aren't problematic, is it worth the risk?
Treatment
There is no treatment but remove the pigs from the sources immediately.
http://www.thepigsite.com/pighealth/article/494/oak-leaves-and-acorns
North America a variety of indigenous and exotic plants have been associated with kidney disease in animals. Most notable are the devastating livestock losses in the western alkaline desert areas of North America where plants such as greasewood (Sarcobatus vermiculatus), and halogeton (Halogeton glomeratus) that contain oxalates, are abundant. Interestingly, the most toxic of the plants that have established themselves in these semiarid areas is halogeton (Halogeton glomeratus), a plant introduced from Asia and highly adaptable to dry alkaline soils. This plant alone has caused heavy death loss in sheep in particular because of its extremely high oxalate content. In addition to oxalate containing plants, kidney failure is also commonly associated with the consumption of plants such as oak trees (Quercus spp.) that contain high levels of tannins.
OakQuercus spp. - Fagaceae (Oak family)
Habitat Some 60 species of oak grow in North America in a wide variety of habitats ranging from moist, rich soils of hard wood forests to drier mountainous areas.
Description Ranging from large trees to shrubs, oaks have alternate, simple, toothed, or lobed dark green glossy leaves. The leaves may be deciduous or persistent depending on the species of oak. The plants are monoecious with the staminate flowers occurring in long catkins and the pistallate flowers occurring singly or in small clusters. The fruit, an acorn, is a nut partially enveloped by an involucre of scales. Two common species of oak growing in western North America commonly associated with livestock poisoning are scrub oak and shinnery oak.
Q. gambelii (Gambels oak, scrub oak) is a shrub or small tree reaching heights of 15 to 20 feet (4.5 to 6 meters). It grows in dense stands in the dry foothills and mountain slopes up to altitudes of 9000 feet (2,743 meters).
Q. havardii (Shinnery oak) is a shrub that seldom attains heights over 4 feet (1.2 meters). It is confined more to the lower elevations and sandy soils of southwestern North America.
Principal Toxin The principal toxin is gallotannin, a polyhydroxphenolic combination of tannic and gallic acid. The tannins found in the leaves, bark, and acorns of oaks produce poisoning through their effect on the intestinal tract and kidneys. Gallotannins are hydrolyzed in the rumen to smaller molecular weight compounds including gallic acid, pyrogallol, and resorcinol. These compounds react with cell proteins to denature them, with resulting cell death. Most severe lesions occur in the kidneys, liver, and digestive tract. In small quantities the rumen microflora detoxify the tannins, and only when large amounts of tannic acid are eaten and bypass the rumen does poisoning occur. Goats and wild ruminants are apparently better able to detoxify tannic acid than other livestock because they have a tannin-binding protein in their saliva that neutralizes tannic acid. Goats have been used effectively to browse on oaks thereby reducing the spread of the oak and increasing the grazing capacity of the range. Oaks at any stage of growth are poisonous, but they are particularly toxic when the leaf and flower buds are just opening in the spring. Consumption of oak buds can be markedly increased in a heavy, late spring snowstorm , when cattle browse the oak that protrudes above the snow. As the leaves mature they become less toxic. Ripe acorns are less toxic than when green. Cattle sheep, horses, and pigs are susceptible to oak poisoning.
Clinical Signs Signs of oak poisoning will vary according to the quantity of oak consumed. Initially affected animals stop eating, become depressed, and develop intestinal stasis. Excessive thirst and frequent urination may be observed. The feces are hard and dark initially, but a black tarry diarrhea often occurs later in the course of poisoning. Teeth grinding and a hunched back are often indicative of abdominal pain. Severe liver and kidney damage is detectable by marked elevations in serum liver enzymes, creatinine, and urea nitrogen. Icterus, red-colored urine, and dehydration are further signs encountered in oak poisoning. Animals may live for 5 to 7 days after the onset of clinical signs.
Necropsy A mucoid, hemorrhagic gastroenteritis is a common finding in oak poisoning. Hemorrhages on various organs and excessive amounts of fluid in the peritoneal and pleural spaces are often present. The kidneys are usually pale swollen and covered with small hemorrhages. Histologically kidney tubular necrosis, and liver necrosis are characteristic of oak poisoning.
Treatment Animals should be removed from the oak and given supportive care in the form of fresh water and good quality hay. Oral administration of a calcium hydroxide solution is helpful in neutralizing residual tannic acid in the rumen. Intravenous fluids should be given to rehydrate severely affected animals and maintain kidney function. Animals that continue to eat have a much better prognosis. Cattle that survive oak poisoning appear to have compensatory weight gains and appear to do well.
Grain or pelleted rations containing 10 to 15 percent calcium hydroxide are beneficial in preventing oak poisoning if cattle have to graze pastures overgrown with oak brush. Goats are effective biological controls and may be used to browse oak for range management purposes because they are unaffected by the tannins in the oak.
Acorn Calf SyndromeThe acorn calf syndrome is not related to oak poisoning attributed to gallotannins but is encountered in calves born to cows on a low plain of nutrition and which have consumed quantities of acorns. Acorn calves are born with laxity of the joints, shortened legs (dwarfism), deformed hooves, and either a domed skull or long narrow head. Compared to normal calves, the acorn calves are stunted and grow poorly. The acorn calf syndrome has also been reported in cows that graze heavily on lupine during mid pregnancy. The toxic principal responsible for this congenital syndrome has not been determined. Protein malnutrition and the presence of a teratogen may be involved in the development of the acorn calf syndrome.
Source (and you have to sign up for this site in order to be able to read the contents on this link)
http://www.ivis.org/special_books/Knight
Whilst ruminants are more susceptible to acorn poisoning, outdoor pigs may be affected occasionally. Young oak leaves or green acorns are the major sources and signs are seen two to three days after ingestion. These include abdominal pain and constipation followed by haemorrhagic diarrhea. The kidneys may also be affected. Again, My pig Buttercup was diagnosed with acorn toxicity just last year. Her urine was brown in color and according to the blood tests, her liver enzymes were elevated. She was removed from the acorn source and when her urine was clear again (about 2 weeks after the acorns were removed), her blood was drawn again and lab results revealed a downward trend and were on the way to returning back to normal. It's a lot easier to simply pick up the acorns than nurse a sick pig back to health. Some say acorns are not toxic to pigs, I disagree. Not all pigs are affected by eating the acorns, while other pigs are. This may have something to do with the genetic makeup, how the body processes foods and less to do with the actual acorns, but its not worth the risk to me. I have to vacuum the acorns up everyday with a yard vacuum or riding lawnmower with the bagging attachment and that has to be done several times a day to manage the amount of acorns in my yard. Large amounts of acorns eaten have the potential to cause issues with pigs. Avoid the areas that have a lot of acorns, use fencing to separate your pig from areas that have oak trees that produce a lot of acorns. Although some say acorns aren't problematic, is it worth the risk?
Treatment
There is no treatment but remove the pigs from the sources immediately.
http://www.thepigsite.com/pighealth/article/494/oak-leaves-and-acorns
North America a variety of indigenous and exotic plants have been associated with kidney disease in animals. Most notable are the devastating livestock losses in the western alkaline desert areas of North America where plants such as greasewood (Sarcobatus vermiculatus), and halogeton (Halogeton glomeratus) that contain oxalates, are abundant. Interestingly, the most toxic of the plants that have established themselves in these semiarid areas is halogeton (Halogeton glomeratus), a plant introduced from Asia and highly adaptable to dry alkaline soils. This plant alone has caused heavy death loss in sheep in particular because of its extremely high oxalate content. In addition to oxalate containing plants, kidney failure is also commonly associated with the consumption of plants such as oak trees (Quercus spp.) that contain high levels of tannins.
OakQuercus spp. - Fagaceae (Oak family)
Habitat Some 60 species of oak grow in North America in a wide variety of habitats ranging from moist, rich soils of hard wood forests to drier mountainous areas.
Description Ranging from large trees to shrubs, oaks have alternate, simple, toothed, or lobed dark green glossy leaves. The leaves may be deciduous or persistent depending on the species of oak. The plants are monoecious with the staminate flowers occurring in long catkins and the pistallate flowers occurring singly or in small clusters. The fruit, an acorn, is a nut partially enveloped by an involucre of scales. Two common species of oak growing in western North America commonly associated with livestock poisoning are scrub oak and shinnery oak.
Q. gambelii (Gambels oak, scrub oak) is a shrub or small tree reaching heights of 15 to 20 feet (4.5 to 6 meters). It grows in dense stands in the dry foothills and mountain slopes up to altitudes of 9000 feet (2,743 meters).
Q. havardii (Shinnery oak) is a shrub that seldom attains heights over 4 feet (1.2 meters). It is confined more to the lower elevations and sandy soils of southwestern North America.
Principal Toxin The principal toxin is gallotannin, a polyhydroxphenolic combination of tannic and gallic acid. The tannins found in the leaves, bark, and acorns of oaks produce poisoning through their effect on the intestinal tract and kidneys. Gallotannins are hydrolyzed in the rumen to smaller molecular weight compounds including gallic acid, pyrogallol, and resorcinol. These compounds react with cell proteins to denature them, with resulting cell death. Most severe lesions occur in the kidneys, liver, and digestive tract. In small quantities the rumen microflora detoxify the tannins, and only when large amounts of tannic acid are eaten and bypass the rumen does poisoning occur. Goats and wild ruminants are apparently better able to detoxify tannic acid than other livestock because they have a tannin-binding protein in their saliva that neutralizes tannic acid. Goats have been used effectively to browse on oaks thereby reducing the spread of the oak and increasing the grazing capacity of the range. Oaks at any stage of growth are poisonous, but they are particularly toxic when the leaf and flower buds are just opening in the spring. Consumption of oak buds can be markedly increased in a heavy, late spring snowstorm , when cattle browse the oak that protrudes above the snow. As the leaves mature they become less toxic. Ripe acorns are less toxic than when green. Cattle sheep, horses, and pigs are susceptible to oak poisoning.
Clinical Signs Signs of oak poisoning will vary according to the quantity of oak consumed. Initially affected animals stop eating, become depressed, and develop intestinal stasis. Excessive thirst and frequent urination may be observed. The feces are hard and dark initially, but a black tarry diarrhea often occurs later in the course of poisoning. Teeth grinding and a hunched back are often indicative of abdominal pain. Severe liver and kidney damage is detectable by marked elevations in serum liver enzymes, creatinine, and urea nitrogen. Icterus, red-colored urine, and dehydration are further signs encountered in oak poisoning. Animals may live for 5 to 7 days after the onset of clinical signs.
Necropsy A mucoid, hemorrhagic gastroenteritis is a common finding in oak poisoning. Hemorrhages on various organs and excessive amounts of fluid in the peritoneal and pleural spaces are often present. The kidneys are usually pale swollen and covered with small hemorrhages. Histologically kidney tubular necrosis, and liver necrosis are characteristic of oak poisoning.
Treatment Animals should be removed from the oak and given supportive care in the form of fresh water and good quality hay. Oral administration of a calcium hydroxide solution is helpful in neutralizing residual tannic acid in the rumen. Intravenous fluids should be given to rehydrate severely affected animals and maintain kidney function. Animals that continue to eat have a much better prognosis. Cattle that survive oak poisoning appear to have compensatory weight gains and appear to do well.
Grain or pelleted rations containing 10 to 15 percent calcium hydroxide are beneficial in preventing oak poisoning if cattle have to graze pastures overgrown with oak brush. Goats are effective biological controls and may be used to browse oak for range management purposes because they are unaffected by the tannins in the oak.
Acorn Calf SyndromeThe acorn calf syndrome is not related to oak poisoning attributed to gallotannins but is encountered in calves born to cows on a low plain of nutrition and which have consumed quantities of acorns. Acorn calves are born with laxity of the joints, shortened legs (dwarfism), deformed hooves, and either a domed skull or long narrow head. Compared to normal calves, the acorn calves are stunted and grow poorly. The acorn calf syndrome has also been reported in cows that graze heavily on lupine during mid pregnancy. The toxic principal responsible for this congenital syndrome has not been determined. Protein malnutrition and the presence of a teratogen may be involved in the development of the acorn calf syndrome.
Source (and you have to sign up for this site in order to be able to read the contents on this link)
http://www.ivis.org/special_books/Knight
Fresh Water
This is also the time of year that fresh water seems to be hard to maintain, often time when the temperatures plummet, water in bowls freeze cutting off access to your pig. Water deprivation can literally kill a pig. (Click here to read more about that) The sodium levels rise and once fresh water is available, pigs tend to drink massive amounts that leads to swelling in the brain and that has the potential to cause serious neurological damage. Fresh water is a MUST regardless of the season. There are bowl warmers available that can be plugged into an outlet and there are methods people use to ensure their pigs always have fresh drinking water available. The heated bowl, that prevents water from freezing, can be bought at farming type stores like Tractor Supply. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/farm-innovators-round-heated-pet-bow
Check up on your pig often when outside
With it being winter or even fall, the air gets drier and so does the skin. Drier skin means more scratching. More scratching means more areas that are a potential gateway for infections. Check your pig daily, look for new areas of concern. Look for open areas, sores, scratches and red areas, tender to the touch spots or areas warm/hot to the touch or any areas that are swollen. Check your pigs temperature and be sure you have a baseline so if your pig does become ill, you know what is normal versus abnormal for your pigs baseline. Keep your pig hydrated and moisturize the skin with coconut oil or perfume free lotions. (always test an area before rubbing all over pig to be sure there is no allergic reaction or sensitivity to a new product) Pigs don't have "fur" and although they do have hair, its not sufficient to keep them warm like a furred animal.
This is the cold, flu and pneumonia season, there is a pneumonia vaccine, however, it does not cover all the different strains of the disease, so it may reduce the risk, but doesn't eliminate the possibility. Signs of pneumonia are lethargy, runny nose, coughing, inappetence, changes in behavior. (click here to read more about pneumonia) It is also a good time to be sure any biannual vaccinations are given.
The change of seasons is a good time to do parasite control as well. (click here to go to the parasite control page) Pigs should be treated for parasites at least every 6 months, some treat more often under the direction of their vet.
This is the cold, flu and pneumonia season, there is a pneumonia vaccine, however, it does not cover all the different strains of the disease, so it may reduce the risk, but doesn't eliminate the possibility. Signs of pneumonia are lethargy, runny nose, coughing, inappetence, changes in behavior. (click here to read more about pneumonia) It is also a good time to be sure any biannual vaccinations are given.
The change of seasons is a good time to do parasite control as well. (click here to go to the parasite control page) Pigs should be treated for parasites at least every 6 months, some treat more often under the direction of their vet.
Hay or straw? Which is best?
Hay is a very GOOD idea, as it helps satisfy their inate need to forage. It adds quality long stem fiber to the diet to aid in digestion. It gives them a sense of fullness with low calories. It's very good for them, however, there are better types of hay than others.
It's been said that rich hay such as alfalfa can cause stones. When pigs develop an interruption in the urinary habits, this can lead to even further complications like bladder rupture or sludge to build up in the bladder requiring surgery to correct. Alfalfa hay has been known to cause complications within the urinary system, it has the right combination of protein, calcium, phosphorus to predispose for the formation of crystals in the urine. Alfalfa is great for animals that are hard keepers or need to gain weight. It can also disrupt the calcium/phosphorus ratios which should be carefully calibrated in her feed. They sell Timothy hay for bunnies in bags at pet stores which is a better option for pigs. Timothy and grass hay is the best choice for your pig to munch on, but not gain excessive weight.
To summarize: Hay is ok, but will likely be eaten, hay also molds, so you will need to check it frequently for any signs of mold and replace since piggies like to nibble on it. Straw is a great insulator and cheaper to buy and will keep your pig warm.
Per Cathy Zolicani, DVM
Avoid alfalfa hay - It has a high protein content and large amount of calcium - it may lead to urinary tract infections, bladder stones and obesity. Any type of grass hay (timothy, orchard, mixed) should be ok.
It's been said that rich hay such as alfalfa can cause stones. When pigs develop an interruption in the urinary habits, this can lead to even further complications like bladder rupture or sludge to build up in the bladder requiring surgery to correct. Alfalfa hay has been known to cause complications within the urinary system, it has the right combination of protein, calcium, phosphorus to predispose for the formation of crystals in the urine. Alfalfa is great for animals that are hard keepers or need to gain weight. It can also disrupt the calcium/phosphorus ratios which should be carefully calibrated in her feed. They sell Timothy hay for bunnies in bags at pet stores which is a better option for pigs. Timothy and grass hay is the best choice for your pig to munch on, but not gain excessive weight.
To summarize: Hay is ok, but will likely be eaten, hay also molds, so you will need to check it frequently for any signs of mold and replace since piggies like to nibble on it. Straw is a great insulator and cheaper to buy and will keep your pig warm.
Per Cathy Zolicani, DVM
Avoid alfalfa hay - It has a high protein content and large amount of calcium - it may lead to urinary tract infections, bladder stones and obesity. Any type of grass hay (timothy, orchard, mixed) should be ok.
Frostbite
Any skin with blood flow can get frostbite. When you are out in the cold, sometimes you notice your hands turning red (once inside, you see your feet are also red). The redness that you're seeing is called frost nip and that's an early sign of frostbite. Frostbite can happen in as little as 5 minutes in the right conditions and it is literally the skin freezing. The level of severity depends on how many layers of tissue it penetrates but is staged in 3 categories. The first stage, it turns white or light yellow, it may itch real bad or even sting. The second stage, it can turn hard and/or shiny and when the skin thaws, it can form blisters. In the advanced third stage, the skin will harden and turn blue or black and it's ice cold even to someone elses touch. Once it has penetrated that deep into the tissue, the person (or pig in this case) may not even know anything is wrong because the area is numb, but in the advanced stages, there is no recovery from those areas that have frostbite. As with any part of the body that has restricted or no blood flow, the skin dies and becomes necrotic. The necrotic tissue will slough off as it dies.
Miracle the pig was rescued by Jennifer at Curly Tails Pig Rescue in 2014. Miracle had frostbite from being neglected and not having a warm place to go during the harsh winter she was forced to live through. She had multiple issues, but her missing back foot/hoof was the upmost concern. She was in bad shape, i remember the first pictures I saw of her and that leg. She is one of the lucky pigs, the pig community rallied and raised money for vet care and a new pig leg. She is now thriving in her home, but taught everyone that pigs are not only tough and can survive the worst of conditions, but they can still be loving pets when properly cared for.
Be sure your pig has a place off the ground to go. Placing hay or straw on the ground does provide some warmth, but the ground is still cold and depending on which you're using, will also absorb the moisture from the ground and can mold or rot.
Check your pigs extremities for any signs of poor circulation, be sure the hooves don't have any symptoms of infection, if they do, treat accordingly. Frostbite is a real possibility for any animal that doesn't have shelter from the winter elements and this is an important story to share with the pig community so everyone is reminded of the possibilities.
Below is a slideshow of Miracles progress from the day she was rescued until now. (Oct 2015) You can follow her story by joining Miracles Journey group on Facebook by clicking here.
Miracle the pig was rescued by Jennifer at Curly Tails Pig Rescue in 2014. Miracle had frostbite from being neglected and not having a warm place to go during the harsh winter she was forced to live through. She had multiple issues, but her missing back foot/hoof was the upmost concern. She was in bad shape, i remember the first pictures I saw of her and that leg. She is one of the lucky pigs, the pig community rallied and raised money for vet care and a new pig leg. She is now thriving in her home, but taught everyone that pigs are not only tough and can survive the worst of conditions, but they can still be loving pets when properly cared for.
Be sure your pig has a place off the ground to go. Placing hay or straw on the ground does provide some warmth, but the ground is still cold and depending on which you're using, will also absorb the moisture from the ground and can mold or rot.
Check your pigs extremities for any signs of poor circulation, be sure the hooves don't have any symptoms of infection, if they do, treat accordingly. Frostbite is a real possibility for any animal that doesn't have shelter from the winter elements and this is an important story to share with the pig community so everyone is reminded of the possibilities.
Below is a slideshow of Miracles progress from the day she was rescued until now. (Oct 2015) You can follow her story by joining Miracles Journey group on Facebook by clicking here.
Winter ice concerns
I wanted to be sure my pigs hooves were protected because we had an unusually snowy winter near Virginia Beach Va in 2014, so I ordered some snow boots for my pig. That didn't go over well with her. She is very willing to let me put clothes on her, but boots? Not so much. Mine actually refused to open her eyes, much less try to stand with them on her feet. I would try infant socks on the hoof before going out and spending substantial money on shoes/boots for your pig. Their hooves are pretty tough, granted, they shouldn't have to stand in the snow for long periods of time, but walking through the snow will not hurt them. My pig refuses to go outside unless I shovel a path for her. Be keep in mind, if you are removing snow, there still could be ice on the surface, like a deck or patio, so be sure to check for that as well.
Pigs have a difficult time keeping traction on slippery surfaces and can sprain, strain muscles/ligaments/tendons or fracture the bones very easily by slipping. Do NOT use salt to de-ice, your pig may eat this and that can lead to salt poisoning. You can use saw dust, sand or dirt to cover those areas, some farmers use a product called Sure Foot for the ice. Some suggest a pet safe ice melter (but most of these are still forms of salt, so I would avoid them since there are so many other options), others suggest carpet runners they keep by their back doors for this purpose. Others use cat litter to help with de-icing. Vinegar and water also seem to be a popular solution to ice. Using tarps to cover the area you need to be ice-free seems to be an effective way at eliminating the need for ice removal products from the typical slippery areas your pig may need to walk on.
Be extra careful when walking your pig near frozen areas. Potbellies can slip and be seriously injured. Fractures and sprains can be catastrophic because pigs typically don't want to bear weight on the affected or injured limb. This leads to a plethora of complications.
Pigs have a difficult time keeping traction on slippery surfaces and can sprain, strain muscles/ligaments/tendons or fracture the bones very easily by slipping. Do NOT use salt to de-ice, your pig may eat this and that can lead to salt poisoning. You can use saw dust, sand or dirt to cover those areas, some farmers use a product called Sure Foot for the ice. Some suggest a pet safe ice melter (but most of these are still forms of salt, so I would avoid them since there are so many other options), others suggest carpet runners they keep by their back doors for this purpose. Others use cat litter to help with de-icing. Vinegar and water also seem to be a popular solution to ice. Using tarps to cover the area you need to be ice-free seems to be an effective way at eliminating the need for ice removal products from the typical slippery areas your pig may need to walk on.
Be extra careful when walking your pig near frozen areas. Potbellies can slip and be seriously injured. Fractures and sprains can be catastrophic because pigs typically don't want to bear weight on the affected or injured limb. This leads to a plethora of complications.
Holiday concerns
During the colder months, several holidays will come and go. First being Halloween. Not everyone celebrates Halloween, but a lot do and it is tradition to hand out candy to trick or treaters who knock on the door during that one evening. That means that you will likely have bowl of candy to hand out. There has been much discussion about chocolate being toxic to pigs. First, that isn't true. It is toxic to other animals, but pigs can process chocolate fine. Some may have an alley to chocolate, and I am by NO means endorsing giving chocolate to pigs, but if they eat a couple of pieces, its not a dire emergency. Much the same with the rest of the candy, although its not good for them, not ideal treats, them stealing a couple of pieces of candy shouldn't hurt them...lets remember, we are discussing pigs, so if there is a bag of candy, for example, YOUR child's candy he or she went out and walked around collecting, the odds are, your pig will not stop at 1-2 pieces, you pig will take mouth full and run back for more and more. Keep the candy out of your pigs reach. Some of the lollipop sticks could be hazardous as well as some of the bulkier wrappers (potentially causing bowel perforations or obstructions).
Thanksgiving is the next big holiday. Friends and family may come by your house, you may be cooking a grand meal to feed everyone. What happens if your pig doesn't like visitors? Start working with your pig NOW to socialize and teach him/her manners. Don't allow your pig to dictate who can come over your house. The easiest thing to do would be to put your pig away when guests come over, but if your home is anything like mine, it seems like there is a revolving door and placing my pig in another room is not an option. Keep in mind, this is also your pigs home and others need to be respectful of that. Your pig will only act the way you trained them to act, or or be a jerk because of the lack of training. You HAVE to train your pig if you ever plan to have other people around them. An untrained, disrespectful pig is no fun to be around. So teach your pig manners and respect so your pig can enjoy the company of others and your guests can enjoy the company of your pig as well. Not to mention, most people are fascinated to see a pet pig and would enjoy seeing, petting and learning about having a pig as a pet. Just remind them human food isn't good for pigs and ask them kindly NOT to give your pet pig any table food or scraps.
Christmas soon follows and again, visitors usually come and go, so the same theory about manners applies here. Be sure to work with your pig on social skills. Teach your pig respect and manners and boundaries. The other problem during the Christmas season is the tree and gifts. My pig thought the ornaments on the tree were real. (Candy shaped ornaments) She would not leave them alone forcing me to eventually move those particular ornaments up higher on the tree. The lights seem to draw their attention as well, so be be sure your pig isn't trying to nibble on the cords for the tree lights. Gifts sitting on the floor are an easy target for your pig. My pig liked to smell each one and if there was anything scented inside the package, she was all over it. Presents would be found all over the house, but mostly in her area of the house. Eventually, I used a baby gate and put it up around the tree to avoid any further investigating by my pig. I will warn you, pigs are fascinated by wrapping paper, so if you're attempting to wrap gifts in the same area your pig is in, you will spend just as much time moving the pig from on top of the wrapping paper as you do actually wrapping gifts. Some people like to use candles with various scents to fill the house with the Christmas spirit, your pig loves this smells too and doesn't realize its wax. Make sure candles are put out of reach of your pig, they will take a bite out of them, obviously if its lit, this can be a terrible situation. Holly, mistletoe and poinsettia plants are among several poisonous plants that might tempt your pig. You should make sure they are kept in places your pig cannot reach. The holidays are not the best time to be introducing a pet into your family. A new pig requires extra attention and a stable environment, which the holiday season doesn’t permit. Also, a pet pig is not a toy or gift that can be returned. Pay special attention to the lights and cords around your christmas tree, pigs are known to chew on cords. This year in particular, the news is warning pet owners to be on the lookout for ticks in Christmas trees. Temperatures have been on the mild side and not cold enough for a sustained period of time in order to take care of the dreaded summertime ticks. Real trees can house mites, lice, ticks, moths and stink bugs, among other insects that hibernate for the winter but wake up from the warmth of your living room. http://www.wsbtv.com/news/lifestyles/holiday/watch-ticks-xmas-tree-year-health-officials-warn. Please remind guests who may come over with pets of their own, that pigs and dogs are NOT a good idea and dogs are known to attack pigs. Please do NOT leave a pig and dog unsupervised for ANY amount of time, especially not a "stranger" dog.
If your pig does get a hold of a Poinsettia plant, don't panic....ASPCA put up a page that explains that what they advise people to do is monitor their pets after exposure for sign/symptoms of gastrointestinal upset. Read more here http://aspcapro.org/resource/shelter-health-poison-control/treating-poinsettia-ingestion
If Holly is ingested? Common signs seen include vomiting, diarrhea, anorexia, lip-smacking and head-shaking. Mechanical injury to the oral mucosa can occur from the leaves and foreign body obstruction may occur if a very large amount of the leaves are ingested.
Thanksgiving is the next big holiday. Friends and family may come by your house, you may be cooking a grand meal to feed everyone. What happens if your pig doesn't like visitors? Start working with your pig NOW to socialize and teach him/her manners. Don't allow your pig to dictate who can come over your house. The easiest thing to do would be to put your pig away when guests come over, but if your home is anything like mine, it seems like there is a revolving door and placing my pig in another room is not an option. Keep in mind, this is also your pigs home and others need to be respectful of that. Your pig will only act the way you trained them to act, or or be a jerk because of the lack of training. You HAVE to train your pig if you ever plan to have other people around them. An untrained, disrespectful pig is no fun to be around. So teach your pig manners and respect so your pig can enjoy the company of others and your guests can enjoy the company of your pig as well. Not to mention, most people are fascinated to see a pet pig and would enjoy seeing, petting and learning about having a pig as a pet. Just remind them human food isn't good for pigs and ask them kindly NOT to give your pet pig any table food or scraps.
Christmas soon follows and again, visitors usually come and go, so the same theory about manners applies here. Be sure to work with your pig on social skills. Teach your pig respect and manners and boundaries. The other problem during the Christmas season is the tree and gifts. My pig thought the ornaments on the tree were real. (Candy shaped ornaments) She would not leave them alone forcing me to eventually move those particular ornaments up higher on the tree. The lights seem to draw their attention as well, so be be sure your pig isn't trying to nibble on the cords for the tree lights. Gifts sitting on the floor are an easy target for your pig. My pig liked to smell each one and if there was anything scented inside the package, she was all over it. Presents would be found all over the house, but mostly in her area of the house. Eventually, I used a baby gate and put it up around the tree to avoid any further investigating by my pig. I will warn you, pigs are fascinated by wrapping paper, so if you're attempting to wrap gifts in the same area your pig is in, you will spend just as much time moving the pig from on top of the wrapping paper as you do actually wrapping gifts. Some people like to use candles with various scents to fill the house with the Christmas spirit, your pig loves this smells too and doesn't realize its wax. Make sure candles are put out of reach of your pig, they will take a bite out of them, obviously if its lit, this can be a terrible situation. Holly, mistletoe and poinsettia plants are among several poisonous plants that might tempt your pig. You should make sure they are kept in places your pig cannot reach. The holidays are not the best time to be introducing a pet into your family. A new pig requires extra attention and a stable environment, which the holiday season doesn’t permit. Also, a pet pig is not a toy or gift that can be returned. Pay special attention to the lights and cords around your christmas tree, pigs are known to chew on cords. This year in particular, the news is warning pet owners to be on the lookout for ticks in Christmas trees. Temperatures have been on the mild side and not cold enough for a sustained period of time in order to take care of the dreaded summertime ticks. Real trees can house mites, lice, ticks, moths and stink bugs, among other insects that hibernate for the winter but wake up from the warmth of your living room. http://www.wsbtv.com/news/lifestyles/holiday/watch-ticks-xmas-tree-year-health-officials-warn. Please remind guests who may come over with pets of their own, that pigs and dogs are NOT a good idea and dogs are known to attack pigs. Please do NOT leave a pig and dog unsupervised for ANY amount of time, especially not a "stranger" dog.
If your pig does get a hold of a Poinsettia plant, don't panic....ASPCA put up a page that explains that what they advise people to do is monitor their pets after exposure for sign/symptoms of gastrointestinal upset. Read more here http://aspcapro.org/resource/shelter-health-poison-control/treating-poinsettia-ingestion
If Holly is ingested? Common signs seen include vomiting, diarrhea, anorexia, lip-smacking and head-shaking. Mechanical injury to the oral mucosa can occur from the leaves and foreign body obstruction may occur if a very large amount of the leaves are ingested.
Christmas headaches include:
Wrapped Presents
Gifts are a surprising source of toxicities during the holidays. If you are going to wrap any food, pet treats, or pet or toddler toys, keep the items in a safe place and well out of your pet’s reach until they are ready to be opened. Pigs have a keen sense of smell and will often unwrap presents early and eat all of the contents.
Tinsel
Tinsel on trees is a tradition is a lot of homes. The problem with this is tinsel is shiny and intriguing to pigs, so they may try to eat it. Consuming enough of it can caused intestinal obstructions.
Ornaments
Ornaments can be fragile and break into a million pieces very easily. If your pig isn't scared away when this happens, or tries to eat them as they are, these pieces of glass can easily cause a lot of damage when swallowed, not only to the esophagus, but also the stomach and intestines as t passes through the system.
Snow Globes
Some snow globes contain ethylene glycol, a highly toxic substance to all pets. If a snow globe is broken, either by a person or a pet, the sweet smell can attract a pet to lick it up, leading to a potentially fatal intoxication. Snow globes should be kept out of reach of pets.
Holiday Food
Pets are often not shy about taking food that is left sitting out on counters or tables. Pets should be kept away from food preparation areas or places where food will be left out. A few of the more concerning common food exposures during the holidays are sodium rich foods and alcohol for pet pigs. But we all know pigs will find holiday food and flip over tables and chairs to get to it. They don't tend to stop eating until they've completely engorged themselves with savory food meant for your human family.
Nuts in a shell
Many families have visitors and also have finger foods scattered throughout the home like pecans, peanuts and/or other nuts in shells. Your pig doesn't realize that eating nuts that remain in shells (with the exception of peanuts whose shells are soft) can literally kill them. Pecans, walnuts and other nuts in a harder outer shell are dangerous for pigs to consume. Shelled nuts? They are ok in moderation (unsalted, of course)
Trash
Don't forget about the trash. Pigs will run to the trashcan because they know (and can smell) yummy things they wish they could have sitting in the trash. They will knock the trashcan over and help themselves to whatever is in there that appeals to them.
Medication
There are often a large number of visitors during the holiday season, and pets often get into medications that friends or family have brought with them. These exposures can be prevented with a little advance planning. People who are not used to having pets in the house can often be unaware of how curious they can be. Pets will often investigate suitcases and can get into pill vials or weekly pill minders. It is safer to have the visitors put their medication in a closed cabinet that is not accessible to pets. Be sure that when they take their medications that they do so behind a closed door, such as the bathroom, so that a dropped pill can be found before the pet has a chance to eat it. A prewritten list of the names, milligram strength, and number of pills that visitors have brought is very useful in an emergency situation as well. Tell your guests that your pig is a curious pet and will rummage through their belongings if the door isn't shut. Keeping any potential toxic agents out of their reach is best. FYI..pigs can unzip luggage.
Salt
Ice melt, homemade play dough, and salt-dough ornaments (even when dry) can all be a tempting salty treat for pets, but can cause life-threatening imbalances in the electrolytes.
Pet owners should, of course, contact their local veterinary professional. This is especially important for pig owners because pigs have a delicate sensitivity to sodium when fresh water isn't available. If your pig does partake in eating some of these things, do NOT allow your pig to drink massive amounts of water, hydration needs to be done slowly, over a longer period of time to avoid the serious neurological damage, We recommend you get your pig to the vet IMMEDIATELY after exposure or call one of the poison help lines to help you determine what is best for your pig.
New Years eve is next. One word. Fireworks. UGH! Loud noises can scare pigs, make sure your pig is safe and secure. Midnight is the usual time these fireworks are lit, so be sure you're prepared in case your pig gets scared. Dippity pig syndrome can occur as a result of external stress like this. (click here to find out about dippity pig syndrome) Alcohol is usually a part of NYE celebrations, so be cautious about leaving open alcohol containers around your pig, they will drink alcohol and pigs can get alcohol poisoning plus, they can be mean drunks.
Think like a child, more like a toddler. Anything you would put away when you would have a baby around are the same precautions you need to take when you have a pet pig.
Wrapped Presents
Gifts are a surprising source of toxicities during the holidays. If you are going to wrap any food, pet treats, or pet or toddler toys, keep the items in a safe place and well out of your pet’s reach until they are ready to be opened. Pigs have a keen sense of smell and will often unwrap presents early and eat all of the contents.
Tinsel
Tinsel on trees is a tradition is a lot of homes. The problem with this is tinsel is shiny and intriguing to pigs, so they may try to eat it. Consuming enough of it can caused intestinal obstructions.
Ornaments
Ornaments can be fragile and break into a million pieces very easily. If your pig isn't scared away when this happens, or tries to eat them as they are, these pieces of glass can easily cause a lot of damage when swallowed, not only to the esophagus, but also the stomach and intestines as t passes through the system.
Snow Globes
Some snow globes contain ethylene glycol, a highly toxic substance to all pets. If a snow globe is broken, either by a person or a pet, the sweet smell can attract a pet to lick it up, leading to a potentially fatal intoxication. Snow globes should be kept out of reach of pets.
Holiday Food
Pets are often not shy about taking food that is left sitting out on counters or tables. Pets should be kept away from food preparation areas or places where food will be left out. A few of the more concerning common food exposures during the holidays are sodium rich foods and alcohol for pet pigs. But we all know pigs will find holiday food and flip over tables and chairs to get to it. They don't tend to stop eating until they've completely engorged themselves with savory food meant for your human family.
Nuts in a shell
Many families have visitors and also have finger foods scattered throughout the home like pecans, peanuts and/or other nuts in shells. Your pig doesn't realize that eating nuts that remain in shells (with the exception of peanuts whose shells are soft) can literally kill them. Pecans, walnuts and other nuts in a harder outer shell are dangerous for pigs to consume. Shelled nuts? They are ok in moderation (unsalted, of course)
Trash
Don't forget about the trash. Pigs will run to the trashcan because they know (and can smell) yummy things they wish they could have sitting in the trash. They will knock the trashcan over and help themselves to whatever is in there that appeals to them.
Medication
There are often a large number of visitors during the holiday season, and pets often get into medications that friends or family have brought with them. These exposures can be prevented with a little advance planning. People who are not used to having pets in the house can often be unaware of how curious they can be. Pets will often investigate suitcases and can get into pill vials or weekly pill minders. It is safer to have the visitors put their medication in a closed cabinet that is not accessible to pets. Be sure that when they take their medications that they do so behind a closed door, such as the bathroom, so that a dropped pill can be found before the pet has a chance to eat it. A prewritten list of the names, milligram strength, and number of pills that visitors have brought is very useful in an emergency situation as well. Tell your guests that your pig is a curious pet and will rummage through their belongings if the door isn't shut. Keeping any potential toxic agents out of their reach is best. FYI..pigs can unzip luggage.
Salt
Ice melt, homemade play dough, and salt-dough ornaments (even when dry) can all be a tempting salty treat for pets, but can cause life-threatening imbalances in the electrolytes.
Pet owners should, of course, contact their local veterinary professional. This is especially important for pig owners because pigs have a delicate sensitivity to sodium when fresh water isn't available. If your pig does partake in eating some of these things, do NOT allow your pig to drink massive amounts of water, hydration needs to be done slowly, over a longer period of time to avoid the serious neurological damage, We recommend you get your pig to the vet IMMEDIATELY after exposure or call one of the poison help lines to help you determine what is best for your pig.
New Years eve is next. One word. Fireworks. UGH! Loud noises can scare pigs, make sure your pig is safe and secure. Midnight is the usual time these fireworks are lit, so be sure you're prepared in case your pig gets scared. Dippity pig syndrome can occur as a result of external stress like this. (click here to find out about dippity pig syndrome) Alcohol is usually a part of NYE celebrations, so be cautious about leaving open alcohol containers around your pig, they will drink alcohol and pigs can get alcohol poisoning plus, they can be mean drunks.
Think like a child, more like a toddler. Anything you would put away when you would have a baby around are the same precautions you need to take when you have a pet pig.
More winter tips
1.Let your pig gradually get used to the cold and snow
Letting your pig stay outside for small amounts of time will not hurt your pig. The key is acclimating them to the new season. If your pig isn’t shivering or nudging the door to come back in, let your pig stay out for a bit and allow his/her body to get used to the colder temps. Do NOT make your pig stay outside with no shelter and no way to keep warm. If they will only be outside for a few minutes, making them stay out is acceptable. However, if you plan to be gone for a few hours and your pig has no choice but to lay in the snow or on the cold ground, that is NOT ok and you should be ashamed of yourself. Get a 10.00 bale of straw so your pig can at the very least try to keep warm.
2.The amount of “cold” your pig can tolerate will vary from pig to pig
Obviously a smaller pig with little to no body fat will not adapt to colder temps as easy as a larger pig with plenty of adipose tissue. Each pig metabolizes at a different rate, therefore some pigs are perfectly fine with sub-zero temps while others just can’t be outside for long. Watch your pig to determine when it is enough.
3.Use some common sense
If its 14 below zero, you don’t want to leave a primarily inside pig, outside all day. If you are miserable standing outside with the wind chill, your pig is too. Make arrangements prior to the super cold weather on where your pug will stay while you’re at work or busy during the day. (Example-crate train, baby gate, etc)
4.Help them with potty time
If your pig is a diva like mine, she refuses to walk on the snow. Shovel a path for your pig. Ice is a danger to larger pigs because they cannot get any traction and can easily slip and fall resulting in muscle strains or tears and even sometimes fractures. Pick a spot that isn’t in the elements, perhaps beside the house under the roof overhang. Build a ramp for those slippery stairs so your pig doesn’t have the fear of falling in addition to the threat of slipping and falling down the stairs. Use rubber or non-slip gripping material on the surfaces outside that get iced over so there is less of a chance of your pig having an injury. Shovel a patch of grass/dirt and use a large litter box. There are recommended litters that are safe for pigs, just keep in mind pigs tend to eat litter materials, so the most natural litter material you can get, the better. Know that pigs sometimes have accidents. Confining them to a smaller space can help reinforce potty training techniques.
5.Being stuck indoors, pigs will get bored. Make DIY toys for your pig to enjoy
A cardboard paper towel tube, some tape and a few pellets will entertain your pig. An apple and some kind of nylon to tie around it and hang for your pig to try and eat will entertain your pig. They don’t need expensive toys to have fun. An empty milk jug with a few cheerios or an old phone book can provide hours of fun for your pig. Be creative.
6.PLEASE be careful for de-icers that contain salt and antifreeze
The salt in itself isn’t the problem; it’s the lack of water at the time the salt is consumed that is the problem. Salt toxicity occurs when there isn’t fresh water available after a substance high in sodium is consumed. When fresh water is made available, they tend to drink massive amounts that cause neurological problems and this can kill your pig. Wood shavings can be used for melting ice, or cat litter can be used. While we do not want our pigs eating these things either, they’re a little safer than rock salt. The salt can also be irritating to their hooves. Antifreeze has a sweet taste (according to experts, I have not personally tried it) and is enticing to animals in general. Antifreeze can be deadly if ingested, so be sure you do not have any radiator leaks on any cars that may be parked in the same area your pig roots around in or no containers of antifreeze left around the yard that your pig can possibly get in to. If your pig does sustain a fall and is limping, call your vet. They will probably need to do an assessment and possibly an X-ray to determine the extent of the injuries.
7.Treat cracked hooves
Ensuring good hoof health is key to your pig being able to tolerate colder temperatures. Keep the hooves clean and wipe them off every time your pig comes back inside. Use booties inside the house to keep them warm (baby socks work good and fit their hooves well) Use hoof moisturizer to make sure dry hooves aren’t a problem and make sure the hooves are trimmed so they aren’t having to shift their weight in a way that’s making it even trickier to walk on a potentially slippery surface. We like Horseshoer’s secret, but there are many to choose from.
8. Determine how to quickly warm your pig up if your pig gets too cold.
Towels and blankets can help keep your pig warm as can pig sweaters or DIY pig clothes. You can take a fleece blanket and use ribbon to wrap around your pig to keep the blanket in place while your pig goes outside. Do NOT use space heaters for pigs, they tend to get too close and will get burned requiring emergency visits to the animal hospital or emergency vet visits.
9. With Christmas literally around the corner, these are things to be on the lookout for.
10. Have your vet give you a name and number of someone who will see your pig in an emergency if they will not be available to see your pig themselves. Have pet poison control and/or ASPCA poison hotline numbers written down for easy access. Do NOT waste time asking people on Facebook what you should do in the event of an emergency, take your pig to the vet or call your vet. Most stores are closed, so even if someone knew exactly how to treat your pigs’ injury, the store where you would get the medication isn’t open. Do not waste your time; don’t waste what may be your pigs’ life by waiting for responses from people with varying degrees of experience. I don’t say this to be rude or disrespectful, only helpful. There have been times when that 15 minutes wasted could’ve saved a pigs life. (Click here to go to the pig toxicity page)
Don’t spend so much time worrying about things that you forget to enjoy your holiday! Pigs will be pigs, but if you use these suggestions, your holiday can be a bit brighter!!
Letting your pig stay outside for small amounts of time will not hurt your pig. The key is acclimating them to the new season. If your pig isn’t shivering or nudging the door to come back in, let your pig stay out for a bit and allow his/her body to get used to the colder temps. Do NOT make your pig stay outside with no shelter and no way to keep warm. If they will only be outside for a few minutes, making them stay out is acceptable. However, if you plan to be gone for a few hours and your pig has no choice but to lay in the snow or on the cold ground, that is NOT ok and you should be ashamed of yourself. Get a 10.00 bale of straw so your pig can at the very least try to keep warm.
2.The amount of “cold” your pig can tolerate will vary from pig to pig
Obviously a smaller pig with little to no body fat will not adapt to colder temps as easy as a larger pig with plenty of adipose tissue. Each pig metabolizes at a different rate, therefore some pigs are perfectly fine with sub-zero temps while others just can’t be outside for long. Watch your pig to determine when it is enough.
3.Use some common sense
If its 14 below zero, you don’t want to leave a primarily inside pig, outside all day. If you are miserable standing outside with the wind chill, your pig is too. Make arrangements prior to the super cold weather on where your pug will stay while you’re at work or busy during the day. (Example-crate train, baby gate, etc)
4.Help them with potty time
If your pig is a diva like mine, she refuses to walk on the snow. Shovel a path for your pig. Ice is a danger to larger pigs because they cannot get any traction and can easily slip and fall resulting in muscle strains or tears and even sometimes fractures. Pick a spot that isn’t in the elements, perhaps beside the house under the roof overhang. Build a ramp for those slippery stairs so your pig doesn’t have the fear of falling in addition to the threat of slipping and falling down the stairs. Use rubber or non-slip gripping material on the surfaces outside that get iced over so there is less of a chance of your pig having an injury. Shovel a patch of grass/dirt and use a large litter box. There are recommended litters that are safe for pigs, just keep in mind pigs tend to eat litter materials, so the most natural litter material you can get, the better. Know that pigs sometimes have accidents. Confining them to a smaller space can help reinforce potty training techniques.
5.Being stuck indoors, pigs will get bored. Make DIY toys for your pig to enjoy
A cardboard paper towel tube, some tape and a few pellets will entertain your pig. An apple and some kind of nylon to tie around it and hang for your pig to try and eat will entertain your pig. They don’t need expensive toys to have fun. An empty milk jug with a few cheerios or an old phone book can provide hours of fun for your pig. Be creative.
6.PLEASE be careful for de-icers that contain salt and antifreeze
The salt in itself isn’t the problem; it’s the lack of water at the time the salt is consumed that is the problem. Salt toxicity occurs when there isn’t fresh water available after a substance high in sodium is consumed. When fresh water is made available, they tend to drink massive amounts that cause neurological problems and this can kill your pig. Wood shavings can be used for melting ice, or cat litter can be used. While we do not want our pigs eating these things either, they’re a little safer than rock salt. The salt can also be irritating to their hooves. Antifreeze has a sweet taste (according to experts, I have not personally tried it) and is enticing to animals in general. Antifreeze can be deadly if ingested, so be sure you do not have any radiator leaks on any cars that may be parked in the same area your pig roots around in or no containers of antifreeze left around the yard that your pig can possibly get in to. If your pig does sustain a fall and is limping, call your vet. They will probably need to do an assessment and possibly an X-ray to determine the extent of the injuries.
7.Treat cracked hooves
Ensuring good hoof health is key to your pig being able to tolerate colder temperatures. Keep the hooves clean and wipe them off every time your pig comes back inside. Use booties inside the house to keep them warm (baby socks work good and fit their hooves well) Use hoof moisturizer to make sure dry hooves aren’t a problem and make sure the hooves are trimmed so they aren’t having to shift their weight in a way that’s making it even trickier to walk on a potentially slippery surface. We like Horseshoer’s secret, but there are many to choose from.
8. Determine how to quickly warm your pig up if your pig gets too cold.
Towels and blankets can help keep your pig warm as can pig sweaters or DIY pig clothes. You can take a fleece blanket and use ribbon to wrap around your pig to keep the blanket in place while your pig goes outside. Do NOT use space heaters for pigs, they tend to get too close and will get burned requiring emergency visits to the animal hospital or emergency vet visits.
9. With Christmas literally around the corner, these are things to be on the lookout for.
- Tinsel- its shiny and usually all over the place. Pigs like shiny objects and love shredding stuff, so tinsel is a “treat”, so your pig thinks. If you insist on using tinsel on your tree or around your home, please put it in places your pig cannot reach. Consumption of one piece likely wont hurt anything, but a mouth full can certainly lead to choking or bowel obstructions. Most likely it will pass through the GI system without any issue, but its better to be safe than sorry.
- Gifts- your pig thinks every gift ever made is for them. Your presents under the tree are no exception, especially the ones with something scented inside. They will likely be targeted first. Wait to put gifts out until they’re ready to be opened or know that your pig WILL likely unwrap and eat whatever is inside if given the opportunity.
- Poinsettias/Mistletoe/Holly- Mistletoe and Holly are more poisonous than poinsettias, but the amount ingested and the size of your pig are what determines if any medical treatment is needed. If your pig eats some of any of those plants, know how much your pig weighs and also how much was ingested. It may not ne quite the emergency you think it is.
- Nuts- Anything other than unsalted peanuts should NOT be given in a shell. Many pigs have died because they ate hard shell nuts with the shell intact. They cannot process these shells. The shells will actually cut up their esophagus, stomachs or intestines and this will kill your pig. Do NOT give your pig nuts in a shell.
- Tree preservatives/tree water- Some people choose to have a live tree and have to add ingredients to the water to sustain the life of the tree. Some of these ingredients can upset the belly of your pig should they drink any of that water. Just be cautious about what you’re using and whether or not your pig has access to it.
- Homemade play dough/ornaments- These are made using a lot of sodium rich substances, if your pig eats this, your pig is running the risk of developing salt toxicity as discussed earlier plus dangerous electrolyte imbalances. Keep these kinds of items out of your pigs reach. Plus, some ornaments are made to look like food, your pig may actually think it is.
- Bones of any kind- Do NOT give your pig bones. They are not dogs and if you chose to eat meat during the holiday season, do not give it to your pig. We are well aware pigs in the wild consume nuts and meat, but your pig is not a wild pig and their body’s have adapted to a more domesticated lifestyle. Bones in general are much like nuts and can splinter causing hemorrhages internally leading to your pig’s untimely death.
- Alcohol- Pigs can be mean drunks. They can also suffer from acute alcohol poisoning. Giving your pig alcohol purely for your amusement isn’t fun or funny. We do not recommend giving pigs’ beer or wine or liquor of any kind.
- Children’s small toys- This becomes a chewing/swallowing hazard. A pig will attempt to eat a Lego or plastic toy, sometimes succeeding. If they’re able to get the toy through the esophagus, they still have to get it past the gut and through the intestines. Because toys are made from all sorts of things, these smaller toys can break apart leaving dangerous edges that can cause internal bleeding, they can be small enough to swallow but too big to pass through the intestines causing an obstruction. Keep these things off the floor.
- Guests bags and purses- Pigs will rummage through everything to find something they want. Ask your guests to put their personal belongs up high so your pig cant reach them. They may have items you don't want your pig to get in to like medications or food products. Pets eating medication is the number one reason people call poison control over the holiday season. (per pet poison control statistics)
- Snow Globes- Some snow globes contain ethylene glycol, a highly toxic substance to all pets. If a snow globe is broken, either by a person or a pet, the sweet smell can attract a pet to lick it up, leading to a potentially fatal intoxication. Snow globes should be kept out of reach of pets.
10. Have your vet give you a name and number of someone who will see your pig in an emergency if they will not be available to see your pig themselves. Have pet poison control and/or ASPCA poison hotline numbers written down for easy access. Do NOT waste time asking people on Facebook what you should do in the event of an emergency, take your pig to the vet or call your vet. Most stores are closed, so even if someone knew exactly how to treat your pigs’ injury, the store where you would get the medication isn’t open. Do not waste your time; don’t waste what may be your pigs’ life by waiting for responses from people with varying degrees of experience. I don’t say this to be rude or disrespectful, only helpful. There have been times when that 15 minutes wasted could’ve saved a pigs life. (Click here to go to the pig toxicity page)
Don’t spend so much time worrying about things that you forget to enjoy your holiday! Pigs will be pigs, but if you use these suggestions, your holiday can be a bit brighter!!
Additional questions we've been asked
Q: What about indoor pigs that have an outdoor pen for rooting and outdoor time. Our girl is an indoor pig that goes out for a few hours here and there throughout the day for rooting and outside time. I'm trying to figure out what to do for her during the winter. Do you let them out for rooting and outside time during the winter and if so, what do you do to make sure they are warm while rooting outside? Or do they stay inside the whole time except for going to the bathroom?
A: Mine is also an indoor pig, I let her out to potty in the winter and if she chooses to stay outside, I have little outside house full of straw. Usually she will potty and then go into her outside house and go in and out of there, but I make her come back in at night to sleep. If she were to come back up to the door to come in the house, I would let her back in though. I do make her stay out on the milder winter days. (Like 40-50 degrees) but when it's freezing outside and she wants to come in, she just goes out to potty. Lots of pigs live outdoors all the time, so as long as they have a structure outside with an insulator like straw to bed down in and get warm, they should be ok outside.
A: Mine is also an indoor pig, I let her out to potty in the winter and if she chooses to stay outside, I have little outside house full of straw. Usually she will potty and then go into her outside house and go in and out of there, but I make her come back in at night to sleep. If she were to come back up to the door to come in the house, I would let her back in though. I do make her stay out on the milder winter days. (Like 40-50 degrees) but when it's freezing outside and she wants to come in, she just goes out to potty. Lots of pigs live outdoors all the time, so as long as they have a structure outside with an insulator like straw to bed down in and get warm, they should be ok outside.