Vaccinations/Anti-Parasite Control
The choice to vaccinate or not may not be yours to make. Some cities require vaccinations in order to be in compliance with zoning restrictions, so be sure you check yours before making the decision not to vaccinate your pig. These vaccinations do not typically eliminate the risk completely of your pig contracting these diseases, but they significantly decrease the chances. Erysipelas, for example, has 22 strains, pigs are susceptible to 15 of them and the 3 most common have a vaccination that can be given. That leaves 12 strains that your pig could potentially contract. Vaccinations for different illnesses and diseases have been around for years, we vaccinate our children so if exposed to a potentially life altering disease, they're protected. This is the same reason we vaccinate pigs, to protect them from contracting life altering/threatening diseases. Parasite control, however, needs to be included at the very least, every 6 months.
Ivermectin and Fenbendazole
Pigs can and do get parasites, including worms. Ivermectin is used to treat mange mites (scabies), lice, roundworms, lungworms, threadworms in swine. Fenbendazole treats tapeworms, whipworms, roundworms and hookworms. Swine performance is influenced by internal parasites, most dramatically in the young, growing pig. Parasites reside in the stomach and intestinal tract of the pig, causing irritation, impaction, indigestion and lack of appetite. Parasites cause loss of nutrients from feed consumed by competing with the host, and by causing poor digestion, gut ulceration and even blood loss. Even small numbers of the large roundworm Ascaris suum can depress feed intake and daily gain and cause a depression in gain:feed ratio. Some worm parasites may be found in the lungs, where they interfere with respiration. This in turn may result in pneumonia. Below is Cathy Zolicani's (DVM), dosing recommendations for these preventive medications. Ask your vet how often they'd like your pig treated or establish a regular "dewormimg" regimen. Pigs should be dewormed on a regular basis for internal and external parasites (usually every 4-6 months). Some vets may have you treat more than Cathy recommends based on your particular circumstances. Each medication has separate doses and their own time frame in which they need to be given in order to be effective and treat the parasite efficiently. Both of these medications are safe and effective, both can be used in pregnant pigs, but not recommended in piglets under 6 weeks of age. When a pig is infected with parasites, they have the potential for not growing properly, their nutrition isn't adequate because they have a parasite not allowing the essential vitamins and minerals to be absorbed as they would in a pig without parasites. Often times, pigs that have an infestation of worms, will have a bloated belly and won't be able to gain a lot of weight. Malnutrition can be a serious issue if this isn't addressed. These parasites are common in the pigs environment, especially those that root and graze or spend time outdoors. They can contract parasites from soil, grazing, other pets, other pigs, eating bugs (including earth worms or mealworms), contact with hay, even if pig parents have horses, work in a barn or come into contact with other species that can host these parasites, they could possibly bring parasites to their indoor pigs. Most of these parasites will show no symptoms until after they have taken a toll on your pig's health. Many of the parasites will not show up on a fecal exam especially if they have invaded organ systems as some do. If a pig has mange, they tend to turn an orange color (not to be confused with pig rust, which is often found on "pink" pigs and will be discussed in another area on the website) and constantly scratch on anything they can get close enough to rub against often leaving scrapes and raw areas all over their body. These are classic signs of worms and mange, every pig is different and will present with different clinical signs, please see examples below.
Symptoms may include the following:
Coughing
Loss of body condition or poor growth
Hairy pigs
Vomiting
Blood in feces but rarely
Anemia
Diarrhea
Bloated or distended belly
Possible types of worms based on symptoms:
Coughing - consider lungworm but only if the environment could give access to earth worms or beetles. Ascarid larvae as they migrate through the lungs can increase the incidence of pneumonia and coughing.
Wasting - round worms, coccidia, kidney worms or Balantidium coli.
Blood in the urine-kidney worms.
Blood in the feces-coccidiosis, trichuris infection.
Anemic pigs - stomach worms
TREATMENT
Dosing instructions by Cathy Zolicani, DVM
Ivermectin - for treatment of mites, lice and a variety of internal parasites, but DOES NOT treat tapeworms.
Use 1% injectable form for horses, cows, or swine (brand name Ivomec or Noromectin) –Treats, mites, lice, and a variety of internal parasites. (but not tapeworms) Also good for mites and lice that your pig may get while grazing or contact with other pigs. Do NOT use paste wormers, they are too difficult to accurately dose. This medication should be used in combination with fenbendazole to ensure ALL parasites are eliminated.
With a small syringe, dose 0.2 cc or ml per 10 pounds (or 1cc for every 50lbs) of body weight to mix with pig's food. Your pig will need 2 doses, 14 days apart. Repeat these 2 doses every 4-6 months if your pig grazes, lives outdoors or is exposed to other pigs. This bottle will cost between $40-50 dollars, but will last years in a normal pet pig household. Make sure you check the expiration date on purchase and make a note of when it expires. Typically this is 2 years after purchase.
The injectible formula tastes bitter given orally so mix with food to cover the taste. This will ensure a stress free deworming, the pigs think they're getting a special treat. Mix with yogurt, canned pumpkin, apple sauce or squirt into a piece of bread, Oreo cookie, into a strawberry, grape or spongy type food that can absorb the liquid. This medication can be used in pregnant pigs, but its not recommended for piglets under 6 weeks old.
Fenbendazole – for tapeworms,whipworms, ascarids. DOES NOT treatmites or lice.
Use safeguard for goats, 10% suspension (100 mg/ml) (brand name Safe-guard)– for tapeworms, whipworms, ascarids but does not treat mites or lice. Therefore, this is an excellent addition to Ivermectin but should not replace it. Dosing with this oral suspension is easy. This should be used in combination with Ivermectin to ensure ALL parasites are eliminated.
Mix 0.1 ml or cc per 10 lbs of body weight, mixed into food such as canned pumpkin or yogurt. This dose should be given once a day for three days in a row. If worms are suspected, repeat the 3 day dosing two weeks after the first dosing. Regular schedule for Fenbendazole is every 4-6 months. This medication can be used in pregnant pigs but it's not recommended for piglets under 6 weeks.
**If your pig has never been "dewormed", the pig is new to the household or its been more than 6 months since the last treatment, you can give the Ivermectin as instructed above or take a stool sample to the vet for testing. Remember, not all worms are detectable in the feces, so although the fecal test may be negative, your pig can still have parasites/worms. If your pig is super itchy or has the mangey orangish/red color skin (that doesn't wash off), odds are your pig has sarcoptic mange and needs to be treated. Your vet can take a skin scraping and test for the prescense of these parasites, or you can treat proactively. Mites are not insects, instead, they're more closely related to spiders and are microscopic, so you can't see them with the naked eye. The female burrows in the skin leaving a trail of eggs behind her. these eggs hatch in 3-10 days and the cycle repeats itself over and over again. Mites prefer hairless skin and thus the ear flaps, elbows and abdomen are at highest risk for the red, scaly itchy skin that characterizes sarcoptic mange. It also be misdiagnosed and lead you down the wrong path assuming there is an allergy due to the body's natural response to an allergen. It can be passed along to humans in the form of scabies, but it tends not to persist on these hosts. They usually go away on their own in humans because we do not make an ideal host for them to complete their life cycle, however, they are extremely itchy if/when they are present. Your primary care doctor can prescribe a cream to help with the eradication of the mites on you faster. (Just be sure to tell your family doctor that you have a pig who has or possibly has mange)
If you'd like to read more on potential worms, here's a link regarding the different types of common worms in swine.
http://www.morrisvetcenter.com/morrisvet/Livestock/Swine-parasites.asp
http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G2430
Both dewormers can be found over the counter at local feed stores, Tractor supply, or online at Amazon, Jeffers, KV Vet Supply, etc. Both dewormers can be given orally (no need for stressful injections) at home.
Although rare, you can overdose your pig using these medications. When Ivermectin is given in high enough doses, it can cross the blood-brain barrier and cause neurologic signs in dogs, including weakness or paralysis of one or more limbs, balance disorders, vision disorders, pain, and seizures.
Ivermectin toxicity can occur whether the drug is given orally, topically (applied to the skin) or parenterally (by IV or injection).
There are very few overdose warnings for the Fenbendazole, it is overall a safe medication.
Source for Ivermectin warning: http://healthypets.mercola.com/ivermectinwarning
Pigs can and do get parasites, including worms. Ivermectin is used to treat mange mites (scabies), lice, roundworms, lungworms, threadworms in swine. Fenbendazole treats tapeworms, whipworms, roundworms and hookworms. Swine performance is influenced by internal parasites, most dramatically in the young, growing pig. Parasites reside in the stomach and intestinal tract of the pig, causing irritation, impaction, indigestion and lack of appetite. Parasites cause loss of nutrients from feed consumed by competing with the host, and by causing poor digestion, gut ulceration and even blood loss. Even small numbers of the large roundworm Ascaris suum can depress feed intake and daily gain and cause a depression in gain:feed ratio. Some worm parasites may be found in the lungs, where they interfere with respiration. This in turn may result in pneumonia. Below is Cathy Zolicani's (DVM), dosing recommendations for these preventive medications. Ask your vet how often they'd like your pig treated or establish a regular "dewormimg" regimen. Pigs should be dewormed on a regular basis for internal and external parasites (usually every 4-6 months). Some vets may have you treat more than Cathy recommends based on your particular circumstances. Each medication has separate doses and their own time frame in which they need to be given in order to be effective and treat the parasite efficiently. Both of these medications are safe and effective, both can be used in pregnant pigs, but not recommended in piglets under 6 weeks of age. When a pig is infected with parasites, they have the potential for not growing properly, their nutrition isn't adequate because they have a parasite not allowing the essential vitamins and minerals to be absorbed as they would in a pig without parasites. Often times, pigs that have an infestation of worms, will have a bloated belly and won't be able to gain a lot of weight. Malnutrition can be a serious issue if this isn't addressed. These parasites are common in the pigs environment, especially those that root and graze or spend time outdoors. They can contract parasites from soil, grazing, other pets, other pigs, eating bugs (including earth worms or mealworms), contact with hay, even if pig parents have horses, work in a barn or come into contact with other species that can host these parasites, they could possibly bring parasites to their indoor pigs. Most of these parasites will show no symptoms until after they have taken a toll on your pig's health. Many of the parasites will not show up on a fecal exam especially if they have invaded organ systems as some do. If a pig has mange, they tend to turn an orange color (not to be confused with pig rust, which is often found on "pink" pigs and will be discussed in another area on the website) and constantly scratch on anything they can get close enough to rub against often leaving scrapes and raw areas all over their body. These are classic signs of worms and mange, every pig is different and will present with different clinical signs, please see examples below.
Symptoms may include the following:
Coughing
Loss of body condition or poor growth
Hairy pigs
Vomiting
Blood in feces but rarely
Anemia
Diarrhea
Bloated or distended belly
Possible types of worms based on symptoms:
Coughing - consider lungworm but only if the environment could give access to earth worms or beetles. Ascarid larvae as they migrate through the lungs can increase the incidence of pneumonia and coughing.
Wasting - round worms, coccidia, kidney worms or Balantidium coli.
Blood in the urine-kidney worms.
Blood in the feces-coccidiosis, trichuris infection.
Anemic pigs - stomach worms
TREATMENT
Dosing instructions by Cathy Zolicani, DVM
Ivermectin - for treatment of mites, lice and a variety of internal parasites, but DOES NOT treat tapeworms.
Use 1% injectable form for horses, cows, or swine (brand name Ivomec or Noromectin) –Treats, mites, lice, and a variety of internal parasites. (but not tapeworms) Also good for mites and lice that your pig may get while grazing or contact with other pigs. Do NOT use paste wormers, they are too difficult to accurately dose. This medication should be used in combination with fenbendazole to ensure ALL parasites are eliminated.
With a small syringe, dose 0.2 cc or ml per 10 pounds (or 1cc for every 50lbs) of body weight to mix with pig's food. Your pig will need 2 doses, 14 days apart. Repeat these 2 doses every 4-6 months if your pig grazes, lives outdoors or is exposed to other pigs. This bottle will cost between $40-50 dollars, but will last years in a normal pet pig household. Make sure you check the expiration date on purchase and make a note of when it expires. Typically this is 2 years after purchase.
The injectible formula tastes bitter given orally so mix with food to cover the taste. This will ensure a stress free deworming, the pigs think they're getting a special treat. Mix with yogurt, canned pumpkin, apple sauce or squirt into a piece of bread, Oreo cookie, into a strawberry, grape or spongy type food that can absorb the liquid. This medication can be used in pregnant pigs, but its not recommended for piglets under 6 weeks old.
Fenbendazole – for tapeworms,whipworms, ascarids. DOES NOT treatmites or lice.
Use safeguard for goats, 10% suspension (100 mg/ml) (brand name Safe-guard)– for tapeworms, whipworms, ascarids but does not treat mites or lice. Therefore, this is an excellent addition to Ivermectin but should not replace it. Dosing with this oral suspension is easy. This should be used in combination with Ivermectin to ensure ALL parasites are eliminated.
Mix 0.1 ml or cc per 10 lbs of body weight, mixed into food such as canned pumpkin or yogurt. This dose should be given once a day for three days in a row. If worms are suspected, repeat the 3 day dosing two weeks after the first dosing. Regular schedule for Fenbendazole is every 4-6 months. This medication can be used in pregnant pigs but it's not recommended for piglets under 6 weeks.
**If your pig has never been "dewormed", the pig is new to the household or its been more than 6 months since the last treatment, you can give the Ivermectin as instructed above or take a stool sample to the vet for testing. Remember, not all worms are detectable in the feces, so although the fecal test may be negative, your pig can still have parasites/worms. If your pig is super itchy or has the mangey orangish/red color skin (that doesn't wash off), odds are your pig has sarcoptic mange and needs to be treated. Your vet can take a skin scraping and test for the prescense of these parasites, or you can treat proactively. Mites are not insects, instead, they're more closely related to spiders and are microscopic, so you can't see them with the naked eye. The female burrows in the skin leaving a trail of eggs behind her. these eggs hatch in 3-10 days and the cycle repeats itself over and over again. Mites prefer hairless skin and thus the ear flaps, elbows and abdomen are at highest risk for the red, scaly itchy skin that characterizes sarcoptic mange. It also be misdiagnosed and lead you down the wrong path assuming there is an allergy due to the body's natural response to an allergen. It can be passed along to humans in the form of scabies, but it tends not to persist on these hosts. They usually go away on their own in humans because we do not make an ideal host for them to complete their life cycle, however, they are extremely itchy if/when they are present. Your primary care doctor can prescribe a cream to help with the eradication of the mites on you faster. (Just be sure to tell your family doctor that you have a pig who has or possibly has mange)
If you'd like to read more on potential worms, here's a link regarding the different types of common worms in swine.
http://www.morrisvetcenter.com/morrisvet/Livestock/Swine-parasites.asp
http://extension.missouri.edu/p/G2430
Both dewormers can be found over the counter at local feed stores, Tractor supply, or online at Amazon, Jeffers, KV Vet Supply, etc. Both dewormers can be given orally (no need for stressful injections) at home.
Although rare, you can overdose your pig using these medications. When Ivermectin is given in high enough doses, it can cross the blood-brain barrier and cause neurologic signs in dogs, including weakness or paralysis of one or more limbs, balance disorders, vision disorders, pain, and seizures.
Ivermectin toxicity can occur whether the drug is given orally, topically (applied to the skin) or parenterally (by IV or injection).
There are very few overdose warnings for the Fenbendazole, it is overall a safe medication.
Source for Ivermectin warning: http://healthypets.mercola.com/ivermectinwarning
DEWORMING QUESTIONS
Where do I buy dewormers?
Ivomec and Safeguard- Tractor Supply stores, local feed stores or Amazon.com
Are there ways to tell that your pig has worms or needs to be "dewormed"?
Yes, your vet can use a fecal sample and test it for the presence of some worms, however, these tests aren't 100% accurate and don't always detect the parasites. Some parasites migrate from the colon and invade organs and other tissues and won't be seen on a traditional fecal test. Some pigs will have a distended or bloated looking belly, you may see worms in the feces, some pigs eat and eat but don't gain weight. These are just a few of the signs that may point to a pig needing to be treated for a possible parasite infestation.
Can I use natural wormers like pumpkin seeds?
You can use anything piggy approved, however, these two medications combined are known to be effective in eradicating the internal and external parasites. Using a home remedy or something not proven to be effective can lead to health complications or generalized discomfort of your pig and may not necessarily eliminate the parasites.
What age do I start deworming?
6 weeks old is a great time. If piglet is younger than 6 weeks please consult a veterinarian. Anytime after 6 weeks, you want to treat the pig as soon as she arrives home, even if you were told she has already been dewormed. Remember, you will treat as directed above, it will need to be done twice within 10-14 days for the Ivermectin and every 3 days, then that cycle repeated for the Fenbendazole.
Can pigs get fleas?
In most cases, the fleas on pigs are really not an issue. Fleas live for 180 days, only about 20 on a host. The rest of the time they are in the environment (your rug) making flea woopie. So dusting your carpets, letting it sit for 48 hr and then vacuuming will greatly reduce your problem. It's messy but effective. Younger pigs have been known to have flea infestations though as they have much softer skin.
How often should I deworm?
Most pigs are just fine with a twice a year schedule. Every 6 months. Spring and Fall. In especially warm climates or areas with heavy parasite loads, you may choose to treat every 4 months year round, with both ivermectin and fenbendazole.
Do I have to give my pig a shot?!
No, and its not recommended to give by injection. Some of these meds are bitter, so you won't want to squirt directly into the mouth. You can inject the medication into something your pig will enjoy eating like a cupcake or other spongy food that is able to absorb the liquid.
How do I know if my pig had worms?
You can possibly see worms in the feces a few days after your pig has been given the medication to eradicate them, but you may not see or notice all types. Treating proactively helps reduce infestations that you may not be able to see. Not all worms are in the feces, some worms migrate to the lungs, kidneys and other organs, so you may notice an improvement in their overall energy or appearance after treating for parasites.
Do inside pigs need to be dewormed?
Yes. Pigs that live indoors typically have access to the soil where some of these parasites reside. It's best to start and maintain a regular deworming schedule.
An article on mites and deworming http://potbelliedpigs4ever.com/worming
COMMON PARASITES
External parasites: Parasites that live on the skin of the pig.
Ticks & Fleas: While fleas are not common on adult healthy pigs because the skin is too tough to bite through, they can infest young piglets and hitch a ride if other pets in the environment have fleas. Advantix, Advantage and Frontline (labeled for dogs) are safe for pigs if you follow the weight dosing. You can buy these from your veterinarian according to the weight of your pig.
Mites are tiny microscopic external parasites that live on pigs skin. They are also referred to as scabies or sarcoptic mange. This is a very common parasite, infecting approximately 60% of national herds. The first symptom is excessive scratching or rubbing against objects. The common signs are ear shaking and severe rubbing of the skin against the sides of the pen or where ever your pig can satisfy the itch. Approximately three to eight weeks after initial infection the skin becomes sensitised to the mite protein and a severe allergy may develop with very tiny red pimples covering the whole of the skin. These cause intense irritation and rubbing to the point where bleeding may occur. Head shaking is a common symptom and hairs are often rubbed away leaving bare patches. The incubation period to the appearance of clinical signs is approximately three weeks although it may be several months before signs are noticed. The life cycle takes 14-15 days from adult to adult to complete. The mite spreads directly from pig to pig, either by close skin contact or contact with recently contaminated surfaces. If pigs are housed in groups there is increased opportunity for spread. The mite dies quickly away from the pig, under most farm conditions, in less than five days. These mites can be spread to other pets and family members, but cannot survive or reproduce away from their pig host. Treatment is with ivermectin or Dectomax, either by injection or given orally with food. All medications are ineffective against the eggs hence the need to treat twice, 10-14 days apart.
http://www.thepigsite.com/pighealth
http://www.merckmanuals.com
http://vetmed.iastate.edu/vdpam
Transmission of pig mites to humans and other pets:
From the CDC:
"What is scabies?"
Scabies is an infestation of the skin by the human itch mite (Sarcoptes scabiei var. hominis). The microscopic scabies mite burrows into the upper layer of the skin where it lives and lays its eggs. The most common symptoms of scabies are intense itching and a pimple-like skin rash. The scabies mite usually is spread by direct, prolonged, skin-to-skin contact with a person who has scabies.
Scabies is found worldwide and affects people of all races and social classes. Scabies can spread rapidly under crowded conditions where close body and skin contact is frequent. Institutions such as nursing homes, extended-care facilities, and prisons are often sites of scabies outbreaks. Child care facilities also are a common site of scabies infestations.
Can I get scabies from my pet?
No. Animals do not spread human scabies. Pets can become infested with a different kind of scabies mite that does not survive or reproduce on humans but causes "mange" in animals. If an animal with "mange" has close contact with a person, the animal mite can get under the person’s skin and cause temporary itching and skin irritation. However, the animal mite cannot reproduce on a person and will die on its own in a couple of days. Although the person does not need to be treated, the animal should be treated because its mites can continue to burrow into the person’s skin and cause symptoms until the animal has been treated successfully." Some people have chosen to seek treatment from their family physician and that treatment should eradicate any symptoms you may be having as well, but it is NOT necessary as these mites cannot survive on humans.
http://www.cdc.gov/parasites
From Dr. Carr:
"The disease is spread through pig to pig contact and through pigs coming into contact with infested building.
The mite is able to survive 21 days off the host in ideal situations. The warmer and drier the conditions the shorter the survival time.The pig mange mite does not live in or on other hosts"
http://www.carrsconsulting.com
From Iowa State University:
"Sarcoptic mange is a common disease and represents the most important ectoparasitic disease of swine. Sarcoptic mange occurs in many other species but the mite Sarcoptes scabiei var suis is specific only for swine. "
http://vetmed.iastate.edu
Pigs4Ever:
"Can a human get mange? If so, what would it be like? Mange on a human is usually an itchy red rash...REALLY ITCHY!! You shouldn't have to worry too much about that as most cases on humans happen when the pig is really loaded with it and people take them to bed with them. The mites don't like us as well as the pigs so it's usually a light case and will go away on it's own with simple nothing."
http://potbelliedpigs4ever.blogspot.com/2011/10/worming-and-mange-mites
From parasitipedia.net:
"Sarcoptic mange mites are very small (0.45 mm long) and can be seen only under microscope. There are species-specific strains that attack cattle, sheep, goats and also humans. As a general rule, pig mange mites are not contagious for cattle, sheep, or humans, and vice-versa."
http://parasitipedia.net/index.
Lice are a less common external parasite that can be seen crawling on your pig. They are approximately 3 mm long and congregate behind the pig's ears, between the legs, and elbows. The adult female lays 2-4 eggs per day over a period of 20-30 days. The eggs are attached to the hair by a cement like substance and they hatch out as nymphs 10-21 days afterwards. The cycle from adult to adult is approximately 30 days. They are blood sucking and cause a certain amount of irritation but their economic effects are probably relatively low. They are aesthetically however not acceptable and severe infestations can cause anemia. Treatment is with ivermectin, all medications are ineffective against the eggs hence the need to treat twice, 10-14 days apart. (see picture below) Pig louse can ONLY survive on pigs and although you may see one on you or your hand, you will not "catch" pig lice. They are species specific.
http://vetmed.iastate.edu
http://www.thepigsite.com
http://www.merckmanuals.com
Where do I buy dewormers?
Ivomec and Safeguard- Tractor Supply stores, local feed stores or Amazon.com
Are there ways to tell that your pig has worms or needs to be "dewormed"?
Yes, your vet can use a fecal sample and test it for the presence of some worms, however, these tests aren't 100% accurate and don't always detect the parasites. Some parasites migrate from the colon and invade organs and other tissues and won't be seen on a traditional fecal test. Some pigs will have a distended or bloated looking belly, you may see worms in the feces, some pigs eat and eat but don't gain weight. These are just a few of the signs that may point to a pig needing to be treated for a possible parasite infestation.
Can I use natural wormers like pumpkin seeds?
You can use anything piggy approved, however, these two medications combined are known to be effective in eradicating the internal and external parasites. Using a home remedy or something not proven to be effective can lead to health complications or generalized discomfort of your pig and may not necessarily eliminate the parasites.
What age do I start deworming?
6 weeks old is a great time. If piglet is younger than 6 weeks please consult a veterinarian. Anytime after 6 weeks, you want to treat the pig as soon as she arrives home, even if you were told she has already been dewormed. Remember, you will treat as directed above, it will need to be done twice within 10-14 days for the Ivermectin and every 3 days, then that cycle repeated for the Fenbendazole.
Can pigs get fleas?
In most cases, the fleas on pigs are really not an issue. Fleas live for 180 days, only about 20 on a host. The rest of the time they are in the environment (your rug) making flea woopie. So dusting your carpets, letting it sit for 48 hr and then vacuuming will greatly reduce your problem. It's messy but effective. Younger pigs have been known to have flea infestations though as they have much softer skin.
How often should I deworm?
Most pigs are just fine with a twice a year schedule. Every 6 months. Spring and Fall. In especially warm climates or areas with heavy parasite loads, you may choose to treat every 4 months year round, with both ivermectin and fenbendazole.
Do I have to give my pig a shot?!
No, and its not recommended to give by injection. Some of these meds are bitter, so you won't want to squirt directly into the mouth. You can inject the medication into something your pig will enjoy eating like a cupcake or other spongy food that is able to absorb the liquid.
How do I know if my pig had worms?
You can possibly see worms in the feces a few days after your pig has been given the medication to eradicate them, but you may not see or notice all types. Treating proactively helps reduce infestations that you may not be able to see. Not all worms are in the feces, some worms migrate to the lungs, kidneys and other organs, so you may notice an improvement in their overall energy or appearance after treating for parasites.
Do inside pigs need to be dewormed?
Yes. Pigs that live indoors typically have access to the soil where some of these parasites reside. It's best to start and maintain a regular deworming schedule.
An article on mites and deworming http://potbelliedpigs4ever.com/worming
COMMON PARASITES
External parasites: Parasites that live on the skin of the pig.
Ticks & Fleas: While fleas are not common on adult healthy pigs because the skin is too tough to bite through, they can infest young piglets and hitch a ride if other pets in the environment have fleas. Advantix, Advantage and Frontline (labeled for dogs) are safe for pigs if you follow the weight dosing. You can buy these from your veterinarian according to the weight of your pig.
Mites are tiny microscopic external parasites that live on pigs skin. They are also referred to as scabies or sarcoptic mange. This is a very common parasite, infecting approximately 60% of national herds. The first symptom is excessive scratching or rubbing against objects. The common signs are ear shaking and severe rubbing of the skin against the sides of the pen or where ever your pig can satisfy the itch. Approximately three to eight weeks after initial infection the skin becomes sensitised to the mite protein and a severe allergy may develop with very tiny red pimples covering the whole of the skin. These cause intense irritation and rubbing to the point where bleeding may occur. Head shaking is a common symptom and hairs are often rubbed away leaving bare patches. The incubation period to the appearance of clinical signs is approximately three weeks although it may be several months before signs are noticed. The life cycle takes 14-15 days from adult to adult to complete. The mite spreads directly from pig to pig, either by close skin contact or contact with recently contaminated surfaces. If pigs are housed in groups there is increased opportunity for spread. The mite dies quickly away from the pig, under most farm conditions, in less than five days. These mites can be spread to other pets and family members, but cannot survive or reproduce away from their pig host. Treatment is with ivermectin or Dectomax, either by injection or given orally with food. All medications are ineffective against the eggs hence the need to treat twice, 10-14 days apart.
http://www.thepigsite.com/pighealth
http://www.merckmanuals.com
http://vetmed.iastate.edu/vdpam
Transmission of pig mites to humans and other pets:
From the CDC:
"What is scabies?"
Scabies is an infestation of the skin by the human itch mite (Sarcoptes scabiei var. hominis). The microscopic scabies mite burrows into the upper layer of the skin where it lives and lays its eggs. The most common symptoms of scabies are intense itching and a pimple-like skin rash. The scabies mite usually is spread by direct, prolonged, skin-to-skin contact with a person who has scabies.
Scabies is found worldwide and affects people of all races and social classes. Scabies can spread rapidly under crowded conditions where close body and skin contact is frequent. Institutions such as nursing homes, extended-care facilities, and prisons are often sites of scabies outbreaks. Child care facilities also are a common site of scabies infestations.
Can I get scabies from my pet?
No. Animals do not spread human scabies. Pets can become infested with a different kind of scabies mite that does not survive or reproduce on humans but causes "mange" in animals. If an animal with "mange" has close contact with a person, the animal mite can get under the person’s skin and cause temporary itching and skin irritation. However, the animal mite cannot reproduce on a person and will die on its own in a couple of days. Although the person does not need to be treated, the animal should be treated because its mites can continue to burrow into the person’s skin and cause symptoms until the animal has been treated successfully." Some people have chosen to seek treatment from their family physician and that treatment should eradicate any symptoms you may be having as well, but it is NOT necessary as these mites cannot survive on humans.
http://www.cdc.gov/parasites
From Dr. Carr:
"The disease is spread through pig to pig contact and through pigs coming into contact with infested building.
The mite is able to survive 21 days off the host in ideal situations. The warmer and drier the conditions the shorter the survival time.The pig mange mite does not live in or on other hosts"
http://www.carrsconsulting.com
From Iowa State University:
"Sarcoptic mange is a common disease and represents the most important ectoparasitic disease of swine. Sarcoptic mange occurs in many other species but the mite Sarcoptes scabiei var suis is specific only for swine. "
http://vetmed.iastate.edu
Pigs4Ever:
"Can a human get mange? If so, what would it be like? Mange on a human is usually an itchy red rash...REALLY ITCHY!! You shouldn't have to worry too much about that as most cases on humans happen when the pig is really loaded with it and people take them to bed with them. The mites don't like us as well as the pigs so it's usually a light case and will go away on it's own with simple nothing."
http://potbelliedpigs4ever.blogspot.com/2011/10/worming-and-mange-mites
From parasitipedia.net:
"Sarcoptic mange mites are very small (0.45 mm long) and can be seen only under microscope. There are species-specific strains that attack cattle, sheep, goats and also humans. As a general rule, pig mange mites are not contagious for cattle, sheep, or humans, and vice-versa."
http://parasitipedia.net/index.
Lice are a less common external parasite that can be seen crawling on your pig. They are approximately 3 mm long and congregate behind the pig's ears, between the legs, and elbows. The adult female lays 2-4 eggs per day over a period of 20-30 days. The eggs are attached to the hair by a cement like substance and they hatch out as nymphs 10-21 days afterwards. The cycle from adult to adult is approximately 30 days. They are blood sucking and cause a certain amount of irritation but their economic effects are probably relatively low. They are aesthetically however not acceptable and severe infestations can cause anemia. Treatment is with ivermectin, all medications are ineffective against the eggs hence the need to treat twice, 10-14 days apart. (see picture below) Pig louse can ONLY survive on pigs and although you may see one on you or your hand, you will not "catch" pig lice. They are species specific.
http://vetmed.iastate.edu
http://www.thepigsite.com
http://www.merckmanuals.com
Diatomaceous Earth
A lot of people swear by DE, however, DE should NOT be used alone to treat parasites in your pig; it can be used in combination though. DE (food grade) can be sprinkled in your yard to help control insects/ticks/fleas but you should not use this as a primary defense against parasites in pigs. Here is the DE website info about the uses of food grade diatomaceous earth for consumption in general, for people, as well as pets. Do NOT use anything other than food grade in any area your pig has access to.
Diatomaceous Earth Uses
To determine which grade of D.E you need, you need to think about your use for Diatomaceous Earth. Food grade D.E. is the only form of D.E. that can be consumed, which means that is the grade of D.E. needed for human or pet consumption.
Likewise, human grade D.E. is best used as an insecticide.
Industrial grade D.E is primarily used as a filter in swimming pools and fish tanks. Businesses in the mining or construction industries also use industrial grade D.E to stabilize nitroglycerin, although no human will ever need to use D.E for this – at least personally.
The bottom line is Food Grade D.E. is for pest control, human consumption, and as an insecticide. Farmers can also use food grade D.E as an anti-caking agent on livestock feed in lesser concentrations. Industrial use is mainly to act as a filtering agent for a swimming pool or for a tank. In some cases, farmers may spread industrial grade D.E over a large field to prevent disease and parasites from overtaking soil before planting crops.
Using the wrong grade of D.E can negatively impact a human or animal’s health, so pay attention to which grade of diatomaceous earth you buy when at the store or online.
Diatomaceous Earth Handling
Diatomaceous earth is a natural drying agent so it should be handled with care regardless of the grade. However, industrial grade DE is much more concentrated than food grade DE and therefore humans should not come in direct contact with it. Gloves and a facemask should be worn at all times and industrial grade DE should be handled with care at all times.
Food grade DE is still strong enough to dry out the skin and cause irritations in the esophagus. Therefore, it is still a good idea to wear gloves and a mask if using food grade DE to remove pests from a garden or on a pet.
Diatomaceous Earth Consumption
Food grade D.E is the only type of DE safe for consumption. It is recommended humans start with a small dose around one teaspoon and eventually work up to a tablespoon. This is so the body can become familiarized with diatomaceous earth.
It is not recommended that humans consume more than three tablespoons per day although excess diatomaceous earth is removed without really any effects on the body.
Industrial grade DE should not be consumed by humans at any given time. If for some reason a human does happen to consume industrial grade DE, he or she should seek medical help to remove the industrial grade DE.
Once again, industrial grade D.E has a high concentration of silica and can cause severe effects on the body. This is why it is vital humans handle industrial grade D.E. with care and only consume Human Grade or Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth like SilaLive.
Source: http://diatomaceous.org/food-grade-diatomaceous-earth
Diatomaceous Earth Uses
To determine which grade of D.E you need, you need to think about your use for Diatomaceous Earth. Food grade D.E. is the only form of D.E. that can be consumed, which means that is the grade of D.E. needed for human or pet consumption.
Likewise, human grade D.E. is best used as an insecticide.
Industrial grade D.E is primarily used as a filter in swimming pools and fish tanks. Businesses in the mining or construction industries also use industrial grade D.E to stabilize nitroglycerin, although no human will ever need to use D.E for this – at least personally.
The bottom line is Food Grade D.E. is for pest control, human consumption, and as an insecticide. Farmers can also use food grade D.E as an anti-caking agent on livestock feed in lesser concentrations. Industrial use is mainly to act as a filtering agent for a swimming pool or for a tank. In some cases, farmers may spread industrial grade D.E over a large field to prevent disease and parasites from overtaking soil before planting crops.
Using the wrong grade of D.E can negatively impact a human or animal’s health, so pay attention to which grade of diatomaceous earth you buy when at the store or online.
Diatomaceous Earth Handling
Diatomaceous earth is a natural drying agent so it should be handled with care regardless of the grade. However, industrial grade DE is much more concentrated than food grade DE and therefore humans should not come in direct contact with it. Gloves and a facemask should be worn at all times and industrial grade DE should be handled with care at all times.
Food grade DE is still strong enough to dry out the skin and cause irritations in the esophagus. Therefore, it is still a good idea to wear gloves and a mask if using food grade DE to remove pests from a garden or on a pet.
Diatomaceous Earth Consumption
Food grade D.E is the only type of DE safe for consumption. It is recommended humans start with a small dose around one teaspoon and eventually work up to a tablespoon. This is so the body can become familiarized with diatomaceous earth.
It is not recommended that humans consume more than three tablespoons per day although excess diatomaceous earth is removed without really any effects on the body.
Industrial grade DE should not be consumed by humans at any given time. If for some reason a human does happen to consume industrial grade DE, he or she should seek medical help to remove the industrial grade DE.
Once again, industrial grade D.E has a high concentration of silica and can cause severe effects on the body. This is why it is vital humans handle industrial grade D.E. with care and only consume Human Grade or Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth like SilaLive.
Source: http://diatomaceous.org/food-grade-diatomaceous-earth